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What is A Plain Weave?



In our previous post, we have already gone through the definition of twill weave.  In summary, twill weave is a type of weave which is most common in pants like khakis, chinos, denim and etc. However, there are also other kinds of weaves which we have not yet to explore. Therefore, today, we will take a look at one of the basic weave categories, include plain weave.

Khakis made from twill weave (Source:




A plain weave is a type of weave which is most common in all types of garments from shirts, pants and etc. Just like the twill weave, the plain weave also has a set of distinctive characteristics or patterns on the fabric. With a twill weave, you can easily recognize the diagonal lines, called the “wales”. However, plain weaves do not have diagonal lines.

Wales (

Instead, plain weaves usually have a checkerboard or chessboard pattern. The checkerboard pattern is created by having one weft thread going over and under each single warp thread. It is this interlacing between the horizontal weft threads to each vertical warp threads which results in the pattern.




Because the weft and warp intersect at a 1:1 ratio, it is also sometimes called the 1-up and 1-down or over and under weave. The good thing about this weave is that because it is equal in terms of weft and warp interlacing, the surface on the front and back is usually the same. If you don’t believe, try to take a regular cotton shirt. Next, try to flip the shirt in and out and see if both sides have the same pattern.

Representation of plain weave (Source:

Boss Plain cotton shirt (Source:

The plain weave fabric is one of the most common types of fabric used to make fabric. One of the many benefits of plain weave is that the process to make clothes is usually very cost-effective and cheap.

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