Men's Pants

What is Cotton Twill?

Cotton twill seems like an alien term which we normal people cannot understand unless of course, you are a weaver. What? At this point, I am not surprised if you become even more confused by my statement. Do not worry, let us break down one by one what a cotton Twill actually is.

In the world of fashion, lots and lots of clothing like shirts, pants and etc are made out of cotton. However, in order to make the clothes, they first needed to be weaved. According to the dictionary, weaving is the simple act of creating a network of fibers called threads of yarns. From one strand of thread/ yarn, multiple networks of fibers can be created in the process called weaving.

Dockers (Source:

The end result is that it creates a flexible material which was woven by many individual strands of thread or yarn. However, different techniques of weaving create different types of fabric which were used in various types of clothing.




The basic of weaves are plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave.¬† For today’s discussion, we will go through cotton twill first before we explore the plain weave and satin weave. In general, (laymen term) twill weave is a special kind of weave which can be recognized by the diagonal lines on the surfaces. In fact, these diagonal lines are called “wales”.

Wales (

Most common clothing with twill weave technique includes denim, chinos, khakis, jean and etc. Khaki, as mentioned in our previous post, is also made from heavyweight cotton weave in a twill technique. Chinos, is the opposite of the khaki pants, with a more lightweight cotton material used.

Chino (Source:

Dockers (Source:

Denim (Source:



As with most weaves, it always involves a weaving machine called the looms as well as strings or metal wires called heddles. At this point, if you are confused do not worry as always. At, we will explain it slowly for you all to understand. Basically, a loom is a type of frame while heddles are metal strings or wires where the thread or yarn will pass by.

Loom (Source:

In a typical weave set-up, many or more heddles will be placed and fitted on to the looms vertically. These vertical threads or yarns are called as “wrap”. The weaving technique twill involves interlocking the horizontal thread known as “weft” over or under the “wrap” yarns. Basically, the horizontal thread will go over or under the vertical thread.

 Heddles (



The twill weave creates this special diagonal lines which you can see from the front but not the back. Therefore, we will now take a look at how twill weave is created. In general, we take one weft yarn (horizontal) and go over two or more wrap (vertical) yarn. Then, the weft yarn will go under one or more wrap and this repeats again.

Twill weave (Source:

The subsequent weft yarn will go over or under one or more wrap yarn ahead or before to create that distinguishable diagonal lines. The end result is a fabric which regardless of material is more attractive and more durable even if its made out of cotton. Therefore, in conclusion, twill is a type of weave and denim is one example of durable clothing made from twill weave.

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